That’s much easier to do these days. The quest for youth–or, at least, the appearance of it–is ages old. But the range of nonsurgical, anti-aging options has soared in recent years. Most women are wary of going under the knife in their 30s and 40s, but they’ll undergo a temporary treatment that can smooth their skin in one lunch break. Less costly and more convenient than surgery, cosmetic injectables, IPL therapy and other wrinkle remedies are booming as more and more women incorporate them into their beauty-maintenance routines. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons says 6.9 million such procedures were performed last year–up 41 percent from the year before. Women made up 86 percent of the patients.
A few years ago doctors relied on collagen that came from cows and required a skin test. Now there’s a range of fillers, from Restylane to CosmoDerm and CosmoPlast–both made from human collagen that require no test–and, of course, Botox, which gained FDA approval just two years ago for the treatment of frown lines. “They’re extraordinarily quick to perform and have an extraordinarily rapid recovery–if there is a recovery period at all,” says New York surgeon Philip Miller, who performed Kauffman’s procedures. He and other practitioners say the uncomplicated nature of the treatments keeps women coming back for more. “I have several female patients who feel that because they are in the workplace and around so many young people, they need to do whatever they can to keep up a more youthful appearance–without using surgery,” says Boston dermatologist Lynn Baden. “It makes you look good, so why not do it?” says Robin Rothkopf, 46, a real-estate investor in Newton, Mass., who has had Botox, Restylane and human collagen injections. “Every single person I know does it. Young and old–everybody.” While the side effects of such treatments appear minimal, no U.S. studies have tracked long-term use. The psychological impact on women is also a concern. Clinical psychologist Rita Freedman, author of “Bodylove: Learning to Like Our Looks and Ourselves, A Practical Guide for Women,” calls it the “creeping disease.” “One woman gets Botox and then her neighbor and relatives look at her and feel relatively unattractive and feel they need to do something, too,” she says.
Women in the work force seem particular susceptible to such pressure. “Working women are judged in a different way than men; they have to be equally productive but also keep their appearance up,” says Elliot Jacobs, a Manhattan plastic surgeon who treats several high-powered executives. “A man can have lines on his face and look ‘distinguished,’ whereas a woman looks ‘old.’ They’re judged by different standards. It’s sad, but it’s true.”
Younger women are not immune. While nearly half of those who underwent minimally invasive procedures last year were between 35 and 50 years old, almost 20 percent were between 19 and 34. That has critics of cosmetic procedures particularly concerned. “When people in their 20s and early 30s are running off to have Botox, there’s a real problem. We place far, far too much emphasis on youth and beauty,” says Lia Macko, coauthor of “Midlife Crisis at 30: How the Stakes Have Changed for a New Generation–And What to Do About It.”
But research shows that more attractive people get better jobs and salaries, and more respect from peers. “We have evidence showing that, whether we like it or not, appearance does matter,” says David B. Sarwer, assistant professor of psychology at the University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine and director of education for the school’s weight and eating disorders program. “They get preferential treatment in a variety of situations across a life span. And we know that especially with women, we equate beauty with youthfulness. So trying to present yourself as looking as young as possible might actually make practical sense.”
Though maybe not financial. At $500 or more per session, noninvasive treatments can add up. But patients say it’s worth it. “The cost does bother me, and it’s a pain to go back every few months,” admits Rothkopf. “But what’s the alternative? "
Women like Rothkopf and Kauffman might be able to decrease their visits, and maybe their bills, in the near future. Several longer-lasting treatments are pending FDA approval. One is Radiance, which contains calcium hydroxylapatite (a component of teeth and bones) and has been shown to keep wrinkles filled for more than three years when injected. Another, polylactic acid (marketed as Sculptra), stimulates collagen production to fill wrinkles and is already widely used in Europe. It has been shown to last up to 18 months. (Restylane’s effects, on the other hand, wear off after four to nine months.)
Such long-term temporary treatments, however, can only postpone the need for permanent procedures so long, say some experts. “You reach a point where you might as well do the face-lift. In the end, the only thing that is really going to tighten your skin is to lift it up–and that requires surgery,” says Boston plastic surgeon Ramsey Alsarraf, coauthor of “The Aging Face: A Systematic Approach. " More than 8.7 million cosmetic plastic-surgery procedures were performed last year, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons–an increase of nearly one third. Eyebrow lifts and face-lifts were among the most popular procedures.
Even Kauffman admits that at some point in the not-so-distant future, her temporary treatments might not be enough. Her 65-year-old mother, Theda Kauffman, who still gets Botox, had a face-lift when she was 55. Kauffman doesn’t plan to wait even that long. “You don’t want to do it right away,” she says. “But get it before you need it. Then you keep looking good.” For now, anyway.
